FRequently Asked questions
We have gathered some of the most commonly asked questions by our customers and answered them in detail. Our goal here is that you finish reading this page with more knowledge and a better understanding of some common questions and concerns. We hope this helps and solves any issues you may encounter or answers some questions you may have prior to or after visiting us.
Please scroll down for both a "Watches" FAQ section and a "Clocks" FAQ section.
Please scroll down for both a "Watches" FAQ section and a "Clocks" FAQ section.
- WatcheS -
How long will my watch battery last?
By far the most frequently asked question by customers, we are only able to tell them to expect at least one full year out of a new battery. The battery life beyond that varies by movement, available functions (back-lighting, chronograph, etc.), and other factors. If you do notice battery life decreasing over the years, this is usually indicative of your watch needing servicing. The dried up lubrication inside puts strain on the movement and therefore uses more energy to operate. Bring in the watch at this time for a free estimate for a cleaning and servicing.
How often should my watch be serviced?
We recommend between one (1) and five (5) years for servicing your watch, depending on two factors: frequency of use and the water resistance of your watch.
EACH YEAR: Older vintage wrist or pocket watches. These watches don't typically have sealed crowns, which means dust and moisture can enter the case and cause wear to the inner components.
APPROX. 2 - 3 YEARS: Newer watches that do have sealed crowns, which helps prevent contaminants from entering the case for a longer period of time.
APPROX. 5 YEARS: High-end or high-feature watches with better water resistance (such as "150 meters" or "20 ATM" marked on the case or dial). These are very well sealed - provided the owner has kept the watch well maintained - and the only real issue over time is the lubrication drying out, which can cause friction and wear down the parts inside.
EACH YEAR: Older vintage wrist or pocket watches. These watches don't typically have sealed crowns, which means dust and moisture can enter the case and cause wear to the inner components.
APPROX. 2 - 3 YEARS: Newer watches that do have sealed crowns, which helps prevent contaminants from entering the case for a longer period of time.
APPROX. 5 YEARS: High-end or high-feature watches with better water resistance (such as "150 meters" or "20 ATM" marked on the case or dial). These are very well sealed - provided the owner has kept the watch well maintained - and the only real issue over time is the lubrication drying out, which can cause friction and wear down the parts inside.
Water-proof or water-resistant?
No watch is guaranteed to be water-proof, which is why the term "water-resistant" is more accepted, and truthful, in marketing watches. There are levels to a watch's resistance to water. Also, for reference, sometimes one may read "ATM" or "BAR" as a unit for degrees of water-resistance. The abbreviation "ATM" stands for "atmosphere" and is equal to 10 meters of water pressure, while the term "BAR" is the European equivalent of "ATM".
A watch simply labelled "water-resistant" is the lowest resistance. It is fine when washing your hands or getting splashed with water, but should not be submerged. The common designations beyond that are "50 meters" - for swimming, "100 meters" - for snorkeling, "200 meters" - for recreational scuba diving, and yes, there is even "1000 meters" - for deep-sea diving with special features and components that not only are resistant to water, but the high pressure one experiences when diving that deep.
Also keep in mind that a watch's water-resistance is not permanent for several reasons. Watch components can become worn and ineffective, such as gaskets, dented cases, or the glass or crystal can become loose or cracked. For frequently used watches in deeper waters, we recommend a water pressure test at least once a year. Many companies recommend testing it every time the back cover has been opened for even something like a battery change. It is important to always bring your watch to a trusted service center authorized by your watch's manufacturer to avoid voiding your warranty.
A watch simply labelled "water-resistant" is the lowest resistance. It is fine when washing your hands or getting splashed with water, but should not be submerged. The common designations beyond that are "50 meters" - for swimming, "100 meters" - for snorkeling, "200 meters" - for recreational scuba diving, and yes, there is even "1000 meters" - for deep-sea diving with special features and components that not only are resistant to water, but the high pressure one experiences when diving that deep.
Also keep in mind that a watch's water-resistance is not permanent for several reasons. Watch components can become worn and ineffective, such as gaskets, dented cases, or the glass or crystal can become loose or cracked. For frequently used watches in deeper waters, we recommend a water pressure test at least once a year. Many companies recommend testing it every time the back cover has been opened for even something like a battery change. It is important to always bring your watch to a trusted service center authorized by your watch's manufacturer to avoid voiding your warranty.
What makes a watch water-resistant?
There are several features that help make a watch water-resistant. The most important are the gaskets - typically made of rubber, nylon, or teflon - that form watertight seals at the points where the crystal, case back, and crown meet the watch case. If the watch has a chronograph, there will be mini gaskets on the push-buttons for that as well. In addition, the watch cases are lined with a sealant - applied in the form of a quick-hardening liquid - which also helps keep water out. The case style and material are also important in helping a watch become water-resistant. The case must be of a durable material to withstand the pressure of being underwater at the rated depths. A screw-in back cover is far superior as well for the purposes of being underwater. Lastly, a screw-down crown, a feature of many divers watches, helps prevent water getting into the case through the watch-stem hole. Always ensure you screw down the crown after setting the time or replacing the battery, it is a good habit to make for yourself!
How is water-resistance tested?
There are essentially two ways of machine-testing water-resistance, referred to as "dry" or "wet" testing. In dry testing, the watch is subjected to air pressure and measurements are taken to see whether the case expands as a result of air leaking into the case. In wet testing, the watch is first subjected to air pressure like before, but then submerged into water. Bubbling indicates a leak and we can visually see the origin point of the bubbles.
How, and how often should I wind my mechanical watch?
For mechanical watches, some people prefer winding in one direction, and some prefer the back-and-forth method. The winding mechanism is a ratchet-style and either method is okay, it just comes down to preference.
Wind the watch whichever way you prefer until you feel increased tension. Do it slowly the first few times you wind your watch so you can get a feel for the difference in tension. If you find your watch slowing down or stopping before it should, getting into the habit of "topping-up" the watch's power by winding it a little bit mid-day is fine as well. On the other hand, letting your watch run through it's full power range (full power; fully wound through to no power, fully unwound) is also healthy for the movement . Simply wind slowly at the beginning and you will get into a routine and become comfortable with how much you need to wind it for your needs.
Wind the watch whichever way you prefer until you feel increased tension. Do it slowly the first few times you wind your watch so you can get a feel for the difference in tension. If you find your watch slowing down or stopping before it should, getting into the habit of "topping-up" the watch's power by winding it a little bit mid-day is fine as well. On the other hand, letting your watch run through it's full power range (full power; fully wound through to no power, fully unwound) is also healthy for the movement . Simply wind slowly at the beginning and you will get into a routine and become comfortable with how much you need to wind it for your needs.
What is an automatic watch?
An automatic watch separates itself from a mechanical watch through the use of an oscillating weight. This weight performs the equivalent of manually winding the watch by swinging inside the case through the normal motion of the wearer's arm and gravity.
Some automatic watches have the oscillating weight in addition to a crown to manually wind the mainspring. It is safe to wind it manually whenever you like, it isn't possible to over-wind the watch as the mainspring barrel doesn't have a hook so there is no increased tension when it is fully wound, and therefore no risk of damaging the mainspring through "over-winding".
A normal, fully wound automatic movement will typically keep running anywhere from 36-48 hours once removed from your wrist. If you decide to not wear an automatic watch, we still recommend winding it every so often to keep the oils properly distributed and gears lubricated. There are automatic watch-winders available (we also sell some in our shop), that you plug in to an outlet and these will automatically rotate watches to keep them wound while not being worn. These are ideal for people who own and wear automatic watches infrequently, say on weekends, etc.
Some automatic watches have the oscillating weight in addition to a crown to manually wind the mainspring. It is safe to wind it manually whenever you like, it isn't possible to over-wind the watch as the mainspring barrel doesn't have a hook so there is no increased tension when it is fully wound, and therefore no risk of damaging the mainspring through "over-winding".
A normal, fully wound automatic movement will typically keep running anywhere from 36-48 hours once removed from your wrist. If you decide to not wear an automatic watch, we still recommend winding it every so often to keep the oils properly distributed and gears lubricated. There are automatic watch-winders available (we also sell some in our shop), that you plug in to an outlet and these will automatically rotate watches to keep them wound while not being worn. These are ideal for people who own and wear automatic watches infrequently, say on weekends, etc.
Why titanium?
Titanium is an extremely lightweight metal that is 30% stronger than steel and nearly 50% lighter. It is also very resistant to corrosion, especially salt-water corrosion. It is also skin-friendly in that is nickel-free and doesn't irritate skin that would typically be bothered by other metals. These benefits all of course transition very well into the watch industry.
Are there watches that you cannot - or will not - fix?
At KAYA'S, we do service almost any watch brand. However, there are watches that we simply must turn away for repairs as they simply don't have parts available for repair purposes. Typically, as a general guideline, if a watch is under the $50 price point, we would classify it under this type. These watches are typically made of cheaper materials inside which keep the price down, and replacement parts are simply not available to us. We usually are able to replace the movement with one of higher quality, but then again, it is costing more than the watch itself. We generally recommend going with replacing the watch completely in these situations unless it has sentimental value and it is deemed worthwhile to repair by the owner specifically. Whether a watch is worth the repair is always up to the owner, we can only give the price of repair.
- CLocks -
How often should my clock be serviced?
We (as well as manufacturers) recommend bringing in your clock to a reputable clock shop for lubrication every 2-3 years from the date your clock was purchased. Unfortunately, we understand this isn't always the case, and customers often bring in a clock to us for the first time oftentimes 10+ years after purchasing the clock. At this time, we take in the clock for assessment. Repairs are usually required in these cases as the lack of lubrication has caused significant wear or damage to gears, bushings, and pivots in the movement. We are able to repair these issues and then do an overhaul and cleaning of the clock to restore it to excellent working condition for years to come.
As far as oiling and lubrication goes, the clock owner may choose to oil the clock themselves. While this is okay, keep in mind that under no circumstance should products like WD-40 ever be used on a clock movement. This creates a coating that will inevitably stop the clock. This coating is then very difficult to remove from the movement for a repairman or clockmaker. Also, when oiling a clock yourself, ensure to not only oil the back plate (accessible from the back cover), but also remove the movement and oil the front plate as well. A complete and professional overhaul and cleaning should be considered every 6-10 years.
As far as oiling and lubrication goes, the clock owner may choose to oil the clock themselves. While this is okay, keep in mind that under no circumstance should products like WD-40 ever be used on a clock movement. This creates a coating that will inevitably stop the clock. This coating is then very difficult to remove from the movement for a repairman or clockmaker. Also, when oiling a clock yourself, ensure to not only oil the back plate (accessible from the back cover), but also remove the movement and oil the front plate as well. A complete and professional overhaul and cleaning should be considered every 6-10 years.
Is it possible to over-wind my clock?
The short answer is no, it is not possible to over-wind your clock's mainspring(s). The mainspring itself has a latch that hooks onto the post of the mainspring barrel, and when fully wound, this latch stops the mainspring from being wound any farther. Mainsprings are very strong, and the tension of winding will naturally increase as you get to a fully-wound state. Theoretically, a strong person forcing it after it has been wound fully could break it, but we would consider this outside of normal operation and therefore not over-winding.
We believe the reasoning behind the idea of being able to over-wind a mainspring comes from the fact that tension in the barrel is at its maximum when fully wound. While being fully wound provides optimal tension for the clock's operation, this also is the most likely time for any weak or worn parts to break. This causes customers to think that it's their fault when a part breaks or they hear a sound when they finish winding the mainspring, when in reality, it was going to happen at some point anyway, but the high tension just exposed the weak part early.
We believe the reasoning behind the idea of being able to over-wind a mainspring comes from the fact that tension in the barrel is at its maximum when fully wound. While being fully wound provides optimal tension for the clock's operation, this also is the most likely time for any weak or worn parts to break. This causes customers to think that it's their fault when a part breaks or they hear a sound when they finish winding the mainspring, when in reality, it was going to happen at some point anyway, but the high tension just exposed the weak part early.
I think I've wound my clock properly, how can I tell?
There are several common situations we find our customers encountering when it comes to regularly winding their clock. As mentioned above, over-winding a mainspring simply isn't an issue. Have peace of mind when winding your clock and use the following scenarios and troubleshooting tips to ensure your clock's mainspring(s) are always fully wound properly.
When it comes to clocks with two or three mainsprings, the design and placement of the parts in the movement can vary. This means the mainsprings won't always necessarily wind the same direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). If you are encountering issues with your clock staying running, ensure that you can't wind a mainspring any tighter in *either* direction. This will help avoid issues when the clock's mainsprings wind in different directions.
In other cases, individuals will feel rather strong resistance or hear grinding sounds when winding their clock. This is just the nature of the mechanical movement within the case. Mainsprings vary by strength and thickness, and therefore will have different resistances, especially when approaching a fully wound state.
As a sort of safety tip when winding clocks, especially when encountering strong resistance when winding up the mainspring, we always encourage ensuring the ratchet gear catches properly. This means when winding, ensure after every turn that you continue holding the key tightly until it goes backward and stops. Rarely, and most commonly in older movements that are in bad shape, the part that keeps the mainspring from unwinding rapidly can break while winding. This causes the key to rapidly spin and is capable of causing severe injury to the fingers or hand. Making sure to hold the key firmly until the spring goes back and catches is a safe routine to get comfortable doing to prevent injury.
When it comes to clocks with two or three mainsprings, the design and placement of the parts in the movement can vary. This means the mainsprings won't always necessarily wind the same direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). If you are encountering issues with your clock staying running, ensure that you can't wind a mainspring any tighter in *either* direction. This will help avoid issues when the clock's mainsprings wind in different directions.
In other cases, individuals will feel rather strong resistance or hear grinding sounds when winding their clock. This is just the nature of the mechanical movement within the case. Mainsprings vary by strength and thickness, and therefore will have different resistances, especially when approaching a fully wound state.
As a sort of safety tip when winding clocks, especially when encountering strong resistance when winding up the mainspring, we always encourage ensuring the ratchet gear catches properly. This means when winding, ensure after every turn that you continue holding the key tightly until it goes backward and stops. Rarely, and most commonly in older movements that are in bad shape, the part that keeps the mainspring from unwinding rapidly can break while winding. This causes the key to rapidly spin and is capable of causing severe injury to the fingers or hand. Making sure to hold the key firmly until the spring goes back and catches is a safe routine to get comfortable doing to prevent injury.
"Time-keeping", "striking", and "chiming". What can my clock do?
One can get an idea of which of these features their clock has (of course, aside from time-keeping) by checking how many holes there are to wind on the clock face. Each hole is for winding a mainspring, and each mainspring will power a different set of gears for a different function. As a general rule, one hole/mainspring means the clock only keeps time. Two mainsprings includes striking in addition to time-keeping. Striking means the clock strikes on every half-hour, and then the correct number of strikes for the hour on the hour. Three mainsprings is the time-keeping, striking, and the additional feature of chiming. Chimes are melodies (such as the famous 16-note Westminster chime) that play at each quarter, as a full chime on the hour which is followed by the hourly striking. These are exceptions to this, but this covers the majority of clocks.
Why does the chiming not match the actual time displayed on the clock?
This is another common question customers ask when they visit. This is typically caused by manual interference with the hands, usually the hour hand, whether knowingly or unknowingly. The hour hand should never be moved manually, as this will mix up the chiming sequence and can damage the gears.
The most simple solution to this problem is if you *hear* the clock chime 4 times, but the clock face *reads* 5, simply lift the hour hand slightly by gently pulling it away from the clock face. This means the hour hand will be loose while the minute hand remains attached securely above it. Re-position the hour hand, while loose, to the 4:00 position and press it back down gently and secure it on the hour hand shaft. Both the minute hand and hour hand have their own posts that they sit on of different diameters. Always ensure they are properly secured on their respective post.
The most simple solution to this problem is if you *hear* the clock chime 4 times, but the clock face *reads* 5, simply lift the hour hand slightly by gently pulling it away from the clock face. This means the hour hand will be loose while the minute hand remains attached securely above it. Re-position the hour hand, while loose, to the 4:00 position and press it back down gently and secure it on the hour hand shaft. Both the minute hand and hour hand have their own posts that they sit on of different diameters. Always ensure they are properly secured on their respective post.